Really sorry that I've not posted for ages! It was a long crossing and it's not always easy to get ashore to get the internet. In addition, the draft I'd written on aboard did not save so this is the second version!! Got some pics on but not very well designed - I'll try to improve it ASAP.
Finally we made it!
After 2620 miles and 31 days at sea, we arrived in Horta on the island of Faial in the Azores on 8th June.
After 2620 miles and 31 days at sea, we arrived in Horta on the island of Faial in the Azores on 8th June.
We had not left Antigua until 8th May we had several days when it was really too choppy to get ashore and get our final provisions so we were a bit delayed.
It was not a good trip - too much wind, too little wind, wind in the wrong direction, (one day we actually went backwards and only got 2 miles closer to our waypoint in 24 hours!!) big seas, rain storms, near gales and oh yes, we did actually have some lovely days - calm seas, blue skies with white puffy clouds, good sailing - just enough to lull us into a false sense of security before the trouble started again!
For much of the trip we were sailing close-hauled, that is trying to sail into the wind. Unfortunately, Moontide cannot sail that tight to the wind and so we had to head much more northerly than we had hoped and at one stage thought we would miss the Azores completely and have to make towards the UK direct - or even Newfoundland!!!
For much of the trip we were sailing close-hauled, that is trying to sail into the wind. Unfortunately, Moontide cannot sail that tight to the wind and so we had to head much more northerly than we had hoped and at one stage thought we would miss the Azores completely and have to make towards the UK direct - or even Newfoundland!!!
We also had some problems on the way. The steering oar from the wind vane steering would not fit into place and on one day came off completely; luckily Chris had made sure that it was well tied on so we did not lose it. However the seas were far to bouncy for Chris to out lean over the stern and fittings be able to put it back in place especially as he had given his ribs a really bad knock a few days out from Antigua. We were using the electronic steering which overall did really well. It works on the tiller which moves the rudder to steer to a set compass bearing, very much as we do when steering except of course that it is rigid when the waves bash into the rudder. About 400 miles from the Azores, Chris heard a strange clunky sound and checking discovered that the top fitting for the rudder was damaged and had been opened up as the heavy swell had been thumping on the rudder. HAND steering it was from then on!
We can only manage 2/3 hours at a time as the wind and seas can make the steering very heavy. It was pretty tiring, steering for aout 21/2 hoiurs, cup of tea, maybe something to eat and then sleep for 2 hours!!
We can only manage 2/3 hours at a time as the wind and seas can make the steering very heavy. It was pretty tiring, steering for aout 21/2 hoiurs, cup of tea, maybe something to eat and then sleep for 2 hours!!
Having said all that we did have some good days too. With our AIS providing data (name, course, range from us etc) to show us vessels we couldn't see we could then call and have a quick chat if they answered. We spoke to 2 commercial vessels and checked they had seen us on their radar and one travelling to New York also gave a weather report. One very helpful sailing boat called us, as although we don't have a transmitter if they're close enough we'll answer to the "sailing boat with the red sails". Somehow the crew had thought we were going the wrong way! That sorted out, Chris had quite a chat and they also helped with weather. Although they were heading for Horta they were a lot faster than us and as they were only staying a few days we have not seen them here. A solo sailor heading for the Canaries called across a couple of times too. One French boat passing didn’t need a radio – we were so close we could shout across!
The area around the Azores is well known for the cetaceans - dolphins and whales to you and me and on the way we saw an number of dolphins, Chris saw a pilot whale and another on the horizon blowing and I saw the back and fin of what I think was a fin whale - my first but hopefully not my last.
All in all though, we were very happy to arrive at Horta and having made very good time in the last couple of days, actually had to reduce sail and slow down so we did not arrive in the dark!
The Azores is the place to stop when crossing the Atlantic towards Europe or the UK and Horta is the most popular port to stop at with around 1000 boats a year passing through. There is a marina but was pretty full and although bigger boats than us go in, there is not a lot of space to maneouvre so not a good spot for Moontide. There is a long inner harbour wall and boats are tied on to that with often 3/4 more rafted up alongside them! On arrival, we were headed over to one boat and had asked if it was OK to come alongside when the marina staff arrived for work and told us to go and anchor. We dropped the anchor and waited for further directions but heard nothing more although there was a lot of activity along the wall. A couple of other boats came and one called the office on the radio (getting through which was more than we could do!!) and were told that as high winds with gusts up to 40 knots were expected that night no further boats were being tied on. I think all the activity was to ensure that the boats all had lines ashore and were secure.
During the afternoon, the winds did start to come up and we did not go ashore as it was getting pretty choppy. The skipper, Martin, of a 3-masted sailing boat, "Saloman", (that we'd first seen in Mindelo) came over to say that he thought we were anchored over our anchor and he was OK with that as he was going to keep an anchor watch and they would call us and we could move if necessary. We decided that it was slightly more restful to move anyway so up with the anchor and down again a little further into the harbour. Apparently, it was a very rough night but I'm sorry (or not!) to say I slept right through it. Chris lay awake worrying about our anchor dragging most of the night though! We were fine though.
During the afternoon, the winds did start to come up and we did not go ashore as it was getting pretty choppy. The skipper, Martin, of a 3-masted sailing boat, "Saloman", (that we'd first seen in Mindelo) came over to say that he thought we were anchored over our anchor and he was OK with that as he was going to keep an anchor watch and they would call us and we could move if necessary. We decided that it was slightly more restful to move anyway so up with the anchor and down again a little further into the harbour. Apparently, it was a very rough night but I'm sorry (or not!) to say I slept right through it. Chris lay awake worrying about our anchor dragging most of the night though! We were fine though.
The next morning, we blow up the dinghy and went ashore to book in, have a look round and get some supplies. The booking in is a bit long-winded but at least all the officials are in one place so was quite easy. Horta is well-known for the paintings yachties have made along the harbour wall and we walked round and found the one that Chris had done in 2005 and updated in 2008. We will bring it up to date with this year before we leave. Unfortunately, the picture that Tony & Jan (Chris life-long friend and Guadiana finca building fame) had done beside which Chris had drawn his has been painted over. Obviously. many of the paintings fade and new ones take their place.
A quick wander round to the little Spar shop (open from 8.30am until 11.00pm every day!) to get some food etc and then a beer in the Sports Bar or Pete's Bar as it used to be known - well frequented and again quite famous as a place for yachties to meet up, then back to the boat for some well-earned rest.
A quick wander round to the little Spar shop (open from 8.30am until 11.00pm every day!) to get some food etc and then a beer in the Sports Bar or Pete's Bar as it used to be known - well frequented and again quite famous as a place for yachties to meet up, then back to the boat for some well-earned rest.
The wind came up again that night and the next morning Saloman and Moontide had changed places! We decided to move - especially as Chris had seen a boat leave from a spot at thee end of the wall - quite easy for us to get into. Our anchor was under Saloman and we had to be fended off - it was suggested that we had dragged but we felt our anchor was where we had dropped it.
We moved over towards the wall and called to "Avatar" and Beat (Swiss) and Lola (Spanish) helped to tie us on. It was good to be attached to land again even if it is indirectly! Beat and Lola have circumnavigated travelling about 52,000 miles, making my trip look very short!! They expect to be off again shortly across to Ireland and the UK.
Obviously, the harbour is tidal and wall is solid so it is definitely not easy to get off the boat at low tide but luckily the tidal range is not too great so even I can get off for about 2/3 hours either side of high tide - although I can't say I enjoy doing it! High tide was quite early for us last week so we had to make sure we got up in time otherwise no food!!
Obviously, the harbour is tidal and wall is solid so it is definitely not easy to get off the boat at low tide but luckily the tidal range is not too great so even I can get off for about 2/3 hours either side of high tide - although I can't say I enjoy doing it! High tide was quite early for us last week so we had to make sure we got up in time otherwise no food!!
The weather here has not been brilliant - I understand that temperatures in the UK have been in the 30's but here its much cooler and on some days quite cold, grey and wet! Rather like a usual English summer's day. Opposite us is the island of Pico with the dormant (but monitored) volcano of Pico directly behind us but some days the cloud and mist/for have been so great that you could not see past the outer harbour wall and certainly not see the island! Normally though the summit peeps out of the top of the clouds and sometimes even the whole mountain is visible.
I'm off to the UK next week as we are having a big family party in Beaulieu with my siblings; it's sort of a celebration of my parents lives - they died within 3 months of each other 20 years ago and hopefully our children and some of the grandchildren will there. Sadly, Chris feels he has to stay here as he needs to do the some work on the boat and, of course, the rudder and he wants to get Moontide ready so we can leave as soon as there is a good(ish) weather window after I get back.
It is getting towards high tide so I'd better stop now so we can go ashore and who knows I may be able to post this!!
It is getting towards high tide so I'd better stop now so we can go ashore and who knows I may be able to post this!!